Hokkaido + L'Île de Giovanni + Le Murmure (Thursday pt. 2)

My plan after le Louvre was to go see a movie, and I was originally going to take a bus to the cinema. But I couldn't figure out where the bus stop was and had hours to kill, so I wandered. I wandered through le Jardin du Carrousel and le Jardin des Tuilieres. I wandered along la Seine. I wandered across Pont des Arts, the "real" Love Locks bridge (I was mistaken about the one behind Notre Dame, which is Pont de l'Archevêché). Eventually I wandered my way all the way to the neighborhood that the cinema was in. No need for a bus at all, it turned out.

As I got closer to the cinema I couldn't ignore my hunger anymore, and it was just then that I spotted a Japanese restaurant called Hokkaido (or Lucy Hokkaido). It had two floors and looked really pretty from the outside, so I figured what the hey. Other than the fact that they sat me in a small corner right in front of the kitchen, I had a very pleasant experience. The decor is dark and simple on the first floor, while a large and colorful tatami room is on the second floor. The staff was very nice and the service was great. I ordered a special that came with 8 pieces of sushi, 4 skewers (brochettes), miso soup, salad, and rice. Everything tasted wonderful and was filling but not too heavy.

After leaving Hokkaido I headed for Forum des Halles, which houses the cinema that I was heading too. Above ground Forum des Halles is a large mall, but underground it's also a huge metro station (Châtelet/Les Halles). So it's super convenient if you want to eat, shop, and catch a movie in the same place, but it can be overwhelming when you're trying to get somewhere and have to change lines there. Anywho, I went into the cinema (UGC Ciné Cité Les Halles) and bought my ticket to see the Japanese film L'Île de Giovanni (or Giovanni's Island, originally ジョバンニの島). The entire film is a flashback of the post-WW2 Soviet occupation of the island Shikotan, told from the point of view of two young brothers. This film is without a doubt the saddest animated film I have ever seen. I hadn't even heard of this event, and seeing it told from a Japanese perspective was just heartbreaking. The people who lived on this island lost everything, and I mean everything. I won't lie and say that I didn't cry, because I did. I'll probably write about it more in depth at another time, but I would definitely recommend L'Île de Giovanni to anyone who has the chance to see it. Plus, since this film was in its original format with French subtitles, I got excellent listening and reading practice while watching it. I heard Japanese and read French, killing two birds with one stone. 

Since I'd accomplished all I'd set out to do for the day, I returned to the apartment. I was just about to eat something pre-made that I'd gotten from the grocery store, when I got a message from H inviting me to join her for dinner at this place called Le Murmure Café near where she lives. I was wary about spending more money than I already had that day, and I had homework to do. But I knew that this would be a good opportunity for me to be more social, so I went back out and met H at the café. As usual, we had a good ol' time eating and conversing. The croque madame and apple pie that I ordered were out of this world! Also, it was my first time eating a meal on the terrace of a restaurant, feeling the neighborhood's energy and observing the people around us. I'm glad that I went despite my original misgivings. Changing things up can pay off, and my day started and ended on a high note.

Bread and Butter [Paris] photos

Le Louvre (Thursday pt. 1)

Yesterday was undoubtedly the best day I've had since coming to Paris!

I had the day off from class because it was Ascension Day, which is a public holiday. Almost everyone I've met who lives here or has been here for a long time has told me this: You must take advantage of the time you have in Paris and do something or go somewhere new everyday. There's so much to experience in this city that it'd be a waste to stay inside doing nothing. So instead of sleeping in and staying in the apartment, I got up early and went to le Musée du Louvre, the most visited museum in the world.

I strategically arrived at le Louvre within an hour after it opened so I wouldn't have to stand in line for too long. To get into the museum I didn't have to wait at all, and then I just had to wait 10 minutes to buy my ticket. It's impossible to see all of the museum in one day, so when you go it's best to have an idea of what you'd like to see during that particular visit. So after getting a map, I made a beeline for the big one: La Joconde (aka The Mona Lisa).

It seems like every time I travel, I have a moment where I get really emotional because it suddenly hits me: Wow, I'm really here. Last year in Japan this happened when I went to Todaiji. And here in Paris, it happened in le Louvre. Even as I had to brace myself against pushy people in the crowd and my view was obstructed by flashing cameras and people taking selfies, I was greatly moved while looking at La Joconde. And the exact same thoughts were going through my head as when I was marveling at the daibutsu in Todaiji. I can't believe I'm seeing this. This is so beautiful and magnificent, I feel like I don't deserve it. Who am I to be able to be here, in this city that only some people get to visit, looking at a masterpiece that only some people get to see in person? God is so awesome. I was incredibly humbled, to say the least. After taking a few minutes to appreciate La Joconde I walked around to look at other paintings, but I couldn't keep myself from getting teary-eyed. Wow, I'm really in Paris. In le Louvre. This is unbelievable. And I just kept hearing Jonathan McReynolds's "Cannot Tell It All" over and over in my head. Being in that museum had a more powerful effect on me than I'd anticipated.


I ended up spending a little over three hours in the museum viewing La Joconde, La Vénus de Milo, the Italian paintings, and the French paintings. My last stop was the collection of  art from Africa, Asian, Oceania, and the Americas. Which, I might add, is one of the smallest collections in the museum and is considerably difficult to find (you see how they do us?).  And oddly enough, my favorite painting wasn't La Joconde by DaVinci, but Scène de déluge by Girodet. It's a heart-wrenching portrayal of a man who can't bring himself to give up his future or his past, and desperately tries to hold onto both at the same time. All in all, my visit to Le Louvre was more rewarding and refreshing than I'd expected, and despite the massive crowds it wasn't nearly as stressful as I'd thought it might be. I'm proud of myself for not being too intimidated to go on my own and cross such a big Paris "must" off my list.

Click here for part 2!


Bread and Butter [Paris] photos

"Great Black Music"! (Wednesday)

Today I returned to la Cité de la musique to experience the museum's current exhibition, "Great Black Music".  Ria had alredy been this weekend, and she was so enthusiastic when telling me about it. She said that it takes a long time to see and hear everything, and that it took her five hours. I thought that was silly and didn't understand why it would take that long, but I ended up being there for over four hours.

The reason why it takes so long to get through this exhibition is because they give you a lot of music to listen to. Instead of your average audioguide, you are given an mp3 player that allows you to interact with the exhibit. Throughout you will see numbers corresponding to songs or commentary that have to do with a certain artist, genre, or theme. You just select the number to listen and watch on the provided screens. And what's more, if you provide your email address, you can "like" as many songs as you want and the exhibit will send you a playlist of your selections after you turn the mp3 player in. How cool is that?! Technology has its benefits.

"Great Black Music" is divided into the following sections: Legends of Black Music (black artists from around the world that everyone should know), Mama Africa (music from northern, western, central, and southern Africa), Sacred Rhythms and Rites (including candomble, voodoo, santeria and gospel), Timeline, Black Americas (music by African-Americans, Latin Americans, and Caribbeans), and Global Mix. Obviously Black Americas was the section that I resonated with most, since it's the kind of black music I'm most familiar with. This part of the exhibition also made me feel really proud to be black. I was looking around and listening and seeing how much people were enjoying the music, and was like Yeah, that's right. We did this. This is just one of many awesome things we've given the world. 

As the conclusion of the exhibition, I felt like something was missing from Global Mix but couldn't really put my finger on it. Great Black Music's themes are strong and its narrative is really well done in the beginning and the middle, but something about Global Mix didn't leave me satisfied. I can't really explain it. But I must admit that Global Mix is the most interactive section. You've got the mp3 music and video selection thing, but then you've also got dance tutorials and virtual spray-painting and turntables. Overall, I LOVED this exhibit. You definitely get your money's worth with all the different artists and musical styles you get exposed to, and the ambiance is a lot more relaxed than in your average museum exhibition. Great Black Music is magnificent!

As I said before, I was there for over four hours and I didn't even get to listen to every single song they had available. If you'll be in Paris between now and August 24th, and you want to get as much out of "Great Black Music" as you can, set aside at least 3-4 hours so that you can take your time enjoying it all.

Bread and Butter [Paris] photos

Wandering in Le Marais (Tuesday)

Yesterday I had class in the morning and afternoon (that's six hours of French total, back to back), so I didn't have as much time to go exploring as I usually do. But I still wanted to go somewhere new and unwind a bit, so I headed to Le Marais. Le Marais is near the city center and is one of the oldest parts of Paris. One of the teachers at my school recommended it to me, saying that there are quite a number of interesting shops, historic buildings, pictoresque parks and gardens, museums, and cultural neighborhoods (including those of certain Jewish, gay, and Chinese communities). I wasn't there for too long and didn't buy anything, but I'll give you a few tips just based on my observations.

I went down one street (Rue Pavée) and happened upon Le Square Georges-Cain, which is just across the street from the Swedish Institute. The square is open and you can stand anywhere in the garden and see the rest of it, so it's not very big. Still, there are a number of things to see. At its center is a bed of flowers which surround a statue of a nude woman. A path goes around the garden and its benches are arranged to face the statue. On the ground and along the walls of the buildings that border the garden you'll also find old sculptures that originally came from other parts of the city. Why they were placed in this garden specifically, I have no idea. But they certainly make this garden less than ordinary.

After walking around Georges-Cain I went back up Rue Pavée and turned right onto Rue des Rosiers. This street, from Rue Pavée to Rue Vieille du Temple, happens to be one of the busiest streets of the Jewish quarter in Le Marais. The type of establishments I saw the most were restaurants, bakeries and cafes. But they don't offer the sort of goodies that you can just find anywhere in Paris. If you're looking for good-quality Jewish pastries, pita, felafel, or anything else of the sort, Rue des Rosiers is the place to go. A bakery called Murciano looked especially scrumptious from the outside, plus its decor is blue which I really liked. And there was a line outside a place called l'As du Fallefel, which is apparently a big deal. I also noticed quite a few Jewish bookstores, so I would also recommend this street if you're interested in Judaism, issues that concern Jewish communities, or texts written in Hebrew.


After Rue de Rosiers wandered down a few more streets before I had to head back "home". One of the last interesting places I looked around in is a must for chocolate lovers. Maison Georges Larnicol is on Rue de Rivoli, and has almost any kind of confection you can think of. Chocolates, macaroons, chocolate covered raisins, chocolate covered nuts, some pastries, you name it. This would be a great place to go if you have a sweet tooth and have a penchant for chocolate.

When I have time, I would definitely like to go back to Le Marais so that I can see more. (I keep saying that I'll go back to places, although I'm not sure that I will. I'm kind of one-and-done when it comes to sightseeing. Plus my daily schedule will be different starting Monday. We'll see. But I digress.) Anyway, Le Marais is a must-visit that I highly recommend!

Bread and Butter [Paris] photos

Maya

On the phone with Ma today,

Me: "This is just too much. All the great people are leaving us! First it was Madiba and now it's Maya? Pretty soon there won't be any more great people left."

Ma: "Well... it was their time to go.  More will have to come."

When I was in 6th grade I did my year-end project on Maya Angelou. At first it was for no reason at all; I was vaguely aware of her as someone who's important but didn't really know why. Through that project I discovered one of the most wise and beautiful souls that has ever graced this earth. From my enthusiastic attempt to comprehend I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings in 6th grade she's stayed with me, like the grandma that I never had. Her lessons have been invaluable to me and I won't ever forget her.

Rest in Peace and Power, Maya Angelou.

Peace and Quiet in Parc Monceau

Today was a slow day, but in a deliciously soothing way!

After class I'd planned to go to la Cité de la musique, which houses le Musée de la musique. I got all the way to Parc Villette on the northeastern edge of city were the museum is located... and found that it's closed on Mondays. Since this is the second time this has happened, you may be wondering why don't you check the website beforehand when you go to museums? The thing is, I did! But I didn't see anything about it being closed on Mondays. So I'll just have to go back Wednesday when my afternoon is free again.

I tried to walk around the area a bit, but I wasn't in a wandering mood because I was disappointed about the museum. And to be honest, today was one of those days where I was feeling sad for no reason. So I took the metro back to my neighborhood, spent an hour snacking and watching YouTube videos, and then went to Parc Monceau. Parc Monceau is a not-too-small, not-too-large park just a few bus stops away from where I live. I passed by it last week on the bus and had wanted to go back, and I figured today would be a good time. I could get started on some reading I've been avoiding, maybe write a song or two, and be alone in peace and quiet without holing myself up in my room.

I rode the bus there and stayed for two and a half hours, and I'm so glad I decided to go. It was exactly what I needed. Parc Monceau is just quiet enough, with tons of beautiful plants and flowers, a pond, walking paths, plenty of benches, and a number of interesting statues. And there are plenty of opportunities for people watching, which is oddly therapeutic.While there I read a couple of chapters of a book called Évidences invisibles (Raymonde Carroll), which is an analysis of cultural differences and similarities between French people and Americans. I have to read it and keep a journal about my observations as part of one of my assignments this summer. It sounds like complicated and boring stuff, but I'm surprised by how entertaining this book is. I can read it without much difficulty, and I'm already starting to reflect on certain situations I've encountered while here. Thankfully I haven't had any great misunderstandings or difficulties with people yet.

After walking around for a bit, for most of the time all I did in Parc Monceau was sit while reading and writing. Yet I left feeling so refreshed, I wasn't sad anymore and I wasn't even disappointed about not being able to go the the music museum today. Everything was just as it was, and I was fine with that.


Bread and Butter [Paris] photos

Tattoos! (Sunday)

So in the States today is Memorial Day and all weekend people have been shopping and grilling and whatnot. But in France yesterday was actually Mother's Day. So my Sunday started with pain au chocolat and chouquettes that R-M's son and daughter-in-law had brought over.




After breakfast I went to ACP, and then I met H at le Musée du quai Branly, which is just down the street. The museum's slogan is "là où dialoguent les cultures" ("where cultures speak to each other/are in dialogue"), and its areas of focus are Asia, Africa, Oceania, and the Americas. It exposes visitors to aspects of the cultures of various indigenous populations in these areas, while seeking to avoid exoticism and orientalism.

Our visit was relatively short, but rewarding. For starters, we got in for free because we're younger than 26 years old. I love not spending money! Additionally, we went there primarily to see "Tatoueurs, tatoués" (one of two major exhibits going on there right now), which showcases the history and practice of tattooing all over the world. Why were we interested in this one, you ask? Because we're young, tattoos are popular, and the subject of the exhibit is a hot topic, you know. Same reasons why all those other young people were there, I suppose. (I also might get a tattoo or two within the next ten years, and figured it would be good to learn about what I'm getting into.) After getting into the museum we had to wait in line for over an hour to get into this exhibit. We worried that we wouldn't make it in time for closing, but thanks be to God we got in and had two hours to see it all.

"Tatoueurs, tatoués" is organized chronologically, with subsections according to theme (militarymen, prisons/prison camps, side shows) geographical location, cultural group, or tattooing style (Japan, Europe, North America, Polynesia, Chicanos/Latinos, etc.). On display are paintings, drawings, photos, videos, and artifacts that have to do with tattoos. What I appreciated most about this exhibit is that it makes clear that tattooing isn't just some enduring heathen activity that won't go away, but is a cultural practice (forced or voluntary) that predates history itself. Furthermore, tattoos have functioned in various ways: as punishment, as a mark of social status, as body art, as a means of telling ones story or paying homage to a person/event, as self-expression, as resistance. And on top of that, there are sooo many different styles and methods of applying tattoos! I had no idea!

The only thing I didn't too much like about the exhibit was that they had tattooed body parts (either real or silicon molds) on display throughout. There were portions of real tattooed skin and there was even a real, shriveled, tattooed arm! I understand why showing these items is necessary when discussing tattoos; in fact I applaud the  organizers for covering all bases to make sure the exhibit was thorough. But I just couldn't look at the body parts for more than a few seconds. Don't expect to find any photos of them because I didn't take any. Also, I just realized while writing this that Africa is pretty much absent. Don't know what that's about, but I highly doubt that populations in Africa haven't participated and don't currently participate in a practice as hold as tattooing.

The exhibit "Tatoueurs, tatoués" will be at le Musée du quai Branly until October 2015, so if you'll be going to Paris within the next year and a half, I highly recommend this exhibit. I'll have to go back sometime so I can experience the rest of the museum.

Bread and Butter [Paris] photos